3 Long Walks in Barcelona

3 Long Walks in Barcelona

Our path continued across the plaza to Las Ramblas, perhaps the most famous street in Barcelona. Cutting diagonally from the plaza directly to the Mediterranean Sea, the wide avenue was packed with exactly what you might expect from any shopping experience in a developed country: McDonalds, Nike, H+M, and all the other popular brands. Yet halfway down the street we turned straight into something decidedly Spanish, La Mercado de La Boqueria. The market was an onslaught to the senses: fruits of every color were stacked to the ceiling, pungent whiffs of fresh seafood assaulted our nasal cavities, and each stall was staffed by boisterous salespeople shouting for our attention. 

Resplendent Rio

Resplendent Rio

Dramatically set amidst long beaches and dramatic cliffs that rise directly from the ocean, Rio de Janeiro is the original home of Portuguese Royalty in the New World and centuries later, still a city of immense international importance. It’s citizens have seen it all in recent years: a corrupt government, rampant poverty amid an intense economic crisis, the 2014 World Cup, and the 2016 Summer Olympics. Both of these international sporting spectacles have come under harsh scrutiny for their lack of planning and unfulfilled economic promise, igniting the city in opposition against establishment forces. Yet behind the tough facade lies a city of six million brash and beautiful Brazilians who are eager to demonstrate their loving pride for la cidada maravilhosa: the marvelous city.

Idyllic Ilha Grande

Idyllic Ilha Grande

Along the North side of the island we encountered untouched nature: striking rock facades protruding directly from the rolling green hillsides, deserted beaches without a soul in sight, and flocks of majestic birds headed out for a morning fishing trip. Following a swarm of similar boats on the same tour, our driver pulled into the pristine waters of the Laguna Azul and we all eagerly jumped in. Here the water was so clear it seemed unnaturally photoshopped, as a tiny island jutting out from the shore captured the current and provided a prime spot for fish to congregate. 

Pristine Praias

Pristine Praias

Paraty is undoubtedly paradise. Stefje and I made it our mission to see as much of the islands and beaches that surround this amazing locale, so we hooked up with some other members of the hostel for a boat tour through the bay. In the distance the overgrown islands demonstrated the area’s spectacular propensity for life. Year round sunshine and winter rains ensure that nature dominates here, sprouting up thick forests, fruit trees, and palm branches spreading shade over every square inch of land. 

Scintillating São Paulo

Scintillating São Paulo

We engaged in one of my favorite activities for getting to know a neighborhood first-hand: strapping on a pair of walking shoes and pounding the pavement one step at a time. Vila Madelena is São Paulo’s best for nightlife, with dozens upon dozens of bars coming alive in the evening hours. Yet during the day it was a curious case study as well, as just one block could include a brand new restaurant, a boutique shop, an apartment building, and an art gallery, each occupying no more than 10 meters of storefront. 

Ferocious Foz

Ferocious Foz

We were still hundreds of yards from the view when the mist began hitting us in the face. As we approached, clouds of spray flung from the water hitting rocks far below ensconced the platform, leaving everything constantly deluged. Yet whenever the winds shifted and the views cleared, the result was a visceral experience. For 270 of the 360 degrees around us the falls dominated, dropping 1.5 cubic tons of water every second. 

Falling For Floripa

Falling For Floripa

As spirits began fading and legs began aching, the tables turned and the trek down the mountainside commenced. Morale was understandably buoyed by the mother of all views: our first glimpse of Lagoinha do leste. What a paradise it seemed! Protected by the cradle of a semi-circle of mountains, with a set of dunes in front and not a road in sight, the crescent-shaped beach is one of Mother Nature’s masterful works. An endless string of head-high waves broke steps from the shoreline, setting off a race to see which overheated hiker could take the first cold lungs. We body surfed the waves and dried out on the beach, kindling a feeling of deep relaxation amidst the solitary environment. 

Unmissable Uruguay

Unmissable Uruguay

Every time we turned inward to explore parts of the town was another opportunity, as quaint windy streets occupied by old school cafes and boutique art galleries dominated the thriving tourist economy. In other stretches persistent waiters attempted to entice us into their overpriced restaurants, but the constant salesmanship couldn’t diminish our enjoyment of the experience. We had blue skies, clear views, and were grateful for this opportunity to step back in time, using our vivid imaginations to speculate what this dock might have felt like 300 years ago. 

Blown Away by Buenos Aires

Blown Away by Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires is a city of constant motion. It’s a meeting point where Argentinians young and old come to live, study, work, and (most importantly) play. It’s the destination where millions of eager tourists each year begin and end journeys through South America. It’s unequivocally the most important city in Argentina, the heartbeat of the country. Unlike the United States, where different cities dominate their respective portions of the economic and social lexicon, Buenos Aires is the hub of everything. This is a city that’s alive: it has a feeling of serendipity, wonder, and awe.

Sun, Salt, and Sand

Sun, Salt, and Sand

From our overcrowded campsite it was just 15 minutes until the Atlantic Ocean began unfolding before our eyes. A 60km long sandy beachfront lay just beyond the center of town, the view blighted by high rise apartment buildings yet the ocean omnipresent. The beachfront atmosphere has turned the crowd into a curious collection of long-term residents and vacationing families. Having arrived during a holiday weekend smack dab in the middle of summer, the town’s population ballooned from 8,000 to over 80,000.

Easy Living In El Bolson

Easy Living In El Bolson

It seems that the owners here have thought of every tiny detail: the indoor area is a constant serenade of calming music, the wooded backyard has trees perfectly spaced to hang half a dozen hammocks, a tiny brook runs through the outdoor garden to ensure the only sound is falling water, and most importantly there's an on-site restaurant serving up delicious food and homemade beer. As I sunk into a hammock just minutes after arriving, a deep feeling of inner calm washed over me, a stark contrast to the hubbub of the city and the pulsating beats of music that seemed to constantly permeate our campsite. The trees blanketed me in shade throughout a scorching afternoon, ensuring that depending which way the wind blew I was subject to the smells of either pine trees, lavender flowers, or eucalyptus leaves. 

Chaos On The Carretera

Chaos On The Carretera

Flanked on all sides by luscious green mountains heavily dominated by tree cover, the beautiful setting of Futaleufu was instantly a refreshing sight to our worn bodies after four full days of hitchhiking. The fresh mountain air was crisp, cool, and inviting, welcoming us to a gorgeous place. Juxtaposed against the chilled out vibe of the town is the true reason why most people find themselves here, where normal civilization feels so far away: the roaring Futaleufu river. The river rolls through the surrounding valley and is one of the best in the world for adventure sports like rafting and white-water kayaking, drawing tourists and professional adventure seekers from all over the globe. 

Pure Patagonia

Pure Patagonia

Just as we crossed the top the weather began to clear, starting a long and beautiful afternoon with plenty of sunshine and beautiful views all around. Oddly enough, heading down the other side turned out to be twice as hard as the ascent. Once the snow petered out, the rocks offered no sense of support or control, leaving us half-sliding half-stepping alongside a forceful river. We triggered more than a few rockslides, as one step on an unstable rock could send a whole cascade down the mountainside. Eventually the river turned into a waterfall and it was too steep to follow any further, so we hopped over a ridge and under up with a full frontal view of a tremendous hanging glacier. Just below a scraggly set of peaks was the packed sheet of ice, so wide that it’s run-off was producing a score of waterfalls slowly carving out smooth features in the rock wall. 

Rugged & Remote

Rugged & Remote

Before even finding a campsite, we were whisked away on a boat tour to the city’s main attraction: Las Capillas de Marmol (The Marble Chapels). Over millions of years, the imperceptibly slow erosion of the lake cutting into nearby stone has caused nature to carve out the most unbelievable caverns my eyes have ever seen. Marble white rocks hang precipitously over openings wide enough for boats and kayaks to navigate directly through, allowing us to get up close and personal with the smooth rocks and the perfect reflection along the still water. 

Glorious Glaciares

Glorious Glaciares

Quickly the trail gave way to open plains and we lost our way, slogging through swamps, crossing forests and streams, and eventually climbing a steep tree-lined hillside. I was out of breath by the time I reached the top after one last rock scramble, but before I could catch my breath - WHAM! - the wind hit me straight in the face. Perched at the top of a ridge, nothing stopped the ferocious gusts coming down off the ice sheet, so we couldn't even stand up for a few minutes without getting knocked down again. 

The Watchers of The Wall

The Watchers of The Wall

As we continued down the stairs to the overlooking balconies, it immediately became clear why glaciers like this one are capable of retreating or advancing up to two meters in a single day: in the peaceful morning light birds chirping were continuously interrupted by the intense sound of ice calving off and falling into the lake from a height of 40 or 50 yards high. The constant threat of spying one of these awesome breaks had us swinging our necks back and forth along the front wall, which is an astounding 3 miles long and an average height of 240 feet! 

The End of The Earth

The End of The Earth

Like a broken foot protruding off the leg that is South America, Tierra del Fuego is one of the most rugged and wild lands that man has ever civilized. It was originally named for the incessant bonfires that naked local tribes burned to stay alive through their grueling winters, but unfortunately Spanish colonization largely exterminated their culture and languages. After crossing the Strait we worked our way across unmarked dirt roads, the landscape flat for as long as the eye could see without any signs of civilization